Visit Milano - Milan Italy

Milano - Milan

To most Italians, Milan is the unofficial capital of Italy and arguably the most interesting city in the country, where old and new meet in an ever changing relationship, an engaging mix.

IMilan cannot claim the opulent and breathtaking beauty of Rome nor the Renaissance glories of Florence but Milan has its own charms - and certainly enough to keep you entertained for a weekend.

In fact, Milan is, arguably, the most interesting city in Italy, where old and new meet in an ever changing relationship. It is both elegant and vulgar, technology-driven and full of old world charm, money-obsessed and genteel, brassy and inviting. Milan is a curious, engaging mix. To most Italians, Milan is the unofficial capital of the country. It is Italy's powerhouse, where money is made. Money brings people, people create vibe and energy: it is the place where "things happen". Milan is internationally famous for its fashion and design, of course. But there is much more to see and enjoy in this industrious, hard working city. Here are a few personal suggestions - places I like, not necessarily the most celebrated.

On an old rattling tram... One of the most rewarding - as well as cheapest - ways to appreciate the charm of Milan is to jump on one of its beautiful, old, rattling, orange trams. The number one, all wooden seats and retro lighting, has the best route in town. Jump on it at Piazza Sempione, where the spectacular early 19th century marble gate Arco della Pace stands - it will take you through the most elegant streets up to Piazza della Scala, the heart of the city (for information on public transport www.atm-mi.it). Get off here. Visit the Teatro alla Scala - sometimes there are guided tours, (www.teatroallascala.org). The world's most famed opera house is a sober, neo-classical building from the outside but is fittingly dramatic inside: stuccos, gold gilding and red velvet everywhere.

In the same area, there is a little, fascinating museum, the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi, a late 19th century palazzetto that used to be the family home of a rich Milanese family. The Bagatti Valsecchi wanted to recreate the feel of an Italian Renaissance palazzo and collected furniture, paintings and everyday life objects. When they could not find what they were looking for, they had it made new so that the house is now a curious mix of genuine originals and fakes. In nearby via Manzoni there is also one of oldest and best design shops in Milan, Da Driade - room after room of beautiful objects, bookcases and sofas (http://www.dadriade.it).

Milan is classy without being ostentatious. In the same street, there is the relatively recent Armani/Via Manzoni 31, a huge and beautiful 1930s building hosting Giorgio Armani's lines. The elegant facade is something to look at. Getting tired? In less than five minutes' walk from here, there is the grand dame of Milanese hotels, the Grand Hotel et De Milano. Hit the bar and enjoy the flawless service, the thick carpets, the velvet curtains, the massive skylight, the wonderful armchairs.

Wildly extravagant and pricey, it is the perfect spot for a relaxing, indulgent aperitif (www.grandhoteletdemilan.it) From here you are just a stone's throw away from Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the Duomo. In the Galleria, there is the original Prada shop - even if you're not into fashion, this shop is a must. This is Milanese style at its best, elegant but understated. Off Duomo Square, there is Santa Maria presso San Satiro (Via Torino 17/19) This tiny jewel of a church is by the great Renaissance artist Donato Bramante and contains one of the most daring painted perspectives you are likely to see.

Beautiful art and a good coffee The first time you see it is always shocking. Leonardo's "Last supper" might well be one of the most reproduced images of our times, yet nothing prepares you for the real thing.

The fresco takes a whole wall, its colors are luminous and vibrant.

It speaks of disbelief, anxiety, shock, yet there is also a weird stillness about it, rendered by its harmonious proportions and spacing. It encapsulates the whole Renaissance (to book: www.cenacolovinciano.org).

Next door, there is one of the most spectacular churches in Milan, Santa Maria delle Grazie, a perfect Renaissance church whose decorated vaults and cloisters are one of the highlights of any trip to Milan.

Don't miss its "frog cloister", a lovely fountain with four bronze frogs spurting water. Whenever I am in that neighborhood, I never fail to visit one of my all time Milan favorites, Marchesi cafè and patisserie (via Santa Maria alla Porta 11a), the oldest shop in Milan (1824). It is a small, wood-paneled gem of a cafè with delicate pistachio-colored painted walls and an elegant bar that is quintessentially Milanese. The smartly dressed barmen make some of the best espressos and cappuccinos in town. The pastries are to die for. In this same area, there are two outstanding churches San Maurizio, a miniature Renaissance church covered in beautiful frescos and mosaics and, above all, Sant'Ambrogio church, one of the jewels of Milan. It is its severe Romanic facade that makes it really special.

A quiet corner and some window shopping. The partly cobbled Brera neighborhood has long lost its bohemian character, but it still manages to keep its old-world charm.

The Pinacoteca di Brera hosts Milan's best paintings. Its diminutive size makes it the perfect museum to visit in a couple of hours. It contains masterpieces such as the "Cristo Morto" of Andrea Mantegna and Caravaggio's the "Cena di Emmaus".

In the same area can be found one of Milan's "secret" gardens, the orto botanico di Brera, the botanical gardens.

Milan has many beautiful gardens, but most are private. The orto botanico, which dates back to 1774 and is pleasantly unkempt these days, is an exception.

The quietness makes for a welcome break from the usual din of the city. Quitness and simplicity also belong to the recently restored chiostri di San Simpliciano, the cloisters attached to the church of San Simpliciano.

They now house a school of religious study so check the opening times. Milan is shopping heaven - if you can afford it, that is.

Any guide will tell you about the Montenapoleone area, where all the big fashion houses have their shops. It is one of the most expensive spots in the world. After 20 minutes, though, you may, like me, find it all rather tedious and prefer to wander off back to reality. One address I would suggest, however, is Cavalli e Nastri (via Brera 2), a really chic vintage shop. It's one for the girls, but even the boys will love the amazingly glamour of their outfits.

Milano Tourist Guides: Centro Guide Turistiche Milano

Pictures courtesy of I.A.T. Informazioni e Accoglienza Turistica della Provincia di Milano

Author: Stefano Arturi
Food writer
Courtesy of sanpellegrino.com

© 1997-2010 Enrico Massetti
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