The classic crossing of the historic Via Cassia
From Siena to Radicofani: 72 KM.
This is an historic road by definition
which ties the city of the Palio (Siena) with grande
Rome. The great sculptor, time, has left its mark along
this ancient consular road. Across the centuries this
Roman road has assisted all the changes that have
touched Tuscany and its people.
This road can be
traveled quickly but it invites you to drive in with a
relaxed frame of mind, fully enjoying the ever changing
landscape.
From Siena you will leave, heading south
following directions for S.S. 2 “Cassia”. Almost
immediately the road will be out in the country, into
the sunny, open Val d’Arbia, traversing places of
historic importance.
For much of the route you will be
re-tracing the historic “Via Francigena”, the
path that religious pilgrims took from Canterbury to Rome, step after step.
The first stops along the way are the towns of Monteroni and Lucignano. Afterwards you’ll
come to the walled town of Buonconvento, you’re
entering one of the historically great grain growing
centers of Italy.
The landscape and architecture as well as the
inhabitants tell a tale of rural culture still more or
less intact. One of the more important relics of this
peasant past are to be found in the form of “grance”,
large warehouses of grain and food stuff, which, among
other uses, were historically intended for the poor,
pilgrims and the needy and sick. In medieval times the
“grance” were buildings which were part of church
complexes and abbacies with the function of storing
agricultural products. One of the characteristic
elements of the Sienese grance is that of their large,
defensive nature. Along the route, just before entering
the town of Monteroni d’Arbia, you’ll see one of
the more important grance, one which is called “Cuna”.
Crossing mainly flat lands, the Cassia arrives in Buonconvento after 27 KM. This is historically a
place of encounters and also of battles and trade. The
city is laid out in a rectangular fashion and in its
original state was surrounded by a defensive wall. It
conserves monumental buildings that bear testament to
the importance of Buonconvento. The Palazzo Comunale (town hall) has 25 coats of arms which testify to the
same number of governing podesta', from 1270 AD onward.
The Museum of Sacred Art deserves a visit, in a
wonderful Liberty setting art works from churches
and pieve from all around the Crete are gathered
for viewing.
Once past Buonconvento the Cassia takes on a more
curvy nature. Shortly after the town of Torrenieri the unmistakable landscape of the Val d’Orcia begins, near the town of San Quirico. You eyes
won’t be able to miss the characteristic sign of groups
of Cypress tress emerging from the undulating hills.
Here is where the more spectacular stretch of the
Cassia begins, passing between the centers of Montalcino on one side and Pienza on the other, it
takes you to the magical “borgo” of Bagno Vignoni.
Here you will see the magnificent main piazza of thermal
water. In fact, there is a common thread that connects
this part of the route and it is water. From the park
of the Mulini of San Quirico and the thermal waters
of Bagno Vignoni, you proceed to the slopes of Monte
Amiata (an extinct volcano) until reaching Bagni
San Filippo, another thermal borgo where the water
bubbles forth from the ground at 50 degrees centigrade.
It’s here that you’ll leave the Cassia, turning left
towards the spectacular castle of Radicofani.
From the heights of the castle tower you will be able to
enjoy an unequaled panorama of the entire Val d’Orcia.
The castle of Radicofani played an important strategic
role along the Francigena route. It’s notorious history
is tied to that of the Ghibellin rebel Ghino di Tacco (mentioned by Dante in the VI stanza of the
Purgatorio and by Boccaccio in the Decamerone) who, expelled from Siena, took up
residence here in Radicofani and used the castle as a
base for his raiding parties.
One final deviation worthy of a visit is that which
will take you to the thermal waters of San Casciano
dei Bagni. A place for relaxing in the hot vapors of
the waters from the slopes of Monte Cetona,
immersed in an environment rich in history and nature.
