The ancient route from England to Rome
recorded by Sigeric, a Saxon archbishop of Canterbury of the
late 10th century. This itinerary was known in Italy as "LaVia Francigena" or "Via Romea Francigena" which means "The road to Rome that comes from France".
Description of the “Via Francigena” and other
peripheral itineraries
Itinerary - this ancient route enters the
Valle d'Aosta and Italian territory at the Great St. Bernard
Pass from where it descends to 'Cantine de Fonteinte' and
on down to Saint-Rhemy . From there it crosses a stream and,
along an unpaved road, it reaches Saint-Leonard where, near
the parish church, it turns down the mule-track descending
to Cerisey. It proceeds on to Barral and, after crossing the
meadows, it follows the 'Ru Neuf de Cerisey' (irrigation
channel) as far as the village of Saint-Oyen.
Continuing on
the mule-track, it passes by the house of the Blessed Jean
Antoine Pellissier, on through the village of Etroubles, and
then crosses over onto the right bank of the Buthier stream
to arrive at Echevennoz –dessus, from where, along the 'ru
Neuf' (irrigation channel), it reaches Gignod.
The descent
towards the village, on an excellent mule-track, passes by
the tower and by the hamlets of Caravel, Chez Courtil, Chez
Henry, to continue through the orchards as far as Chez
Roncoz. Then, along the carriage road, it reaches Variney
from where it continues down in the towards Aosta.
Itinerary of a linked circuit - This itinerary branches off
the Via Francigena a few kilometers south of 'Cantine de
Fonteinte' following the track called the 'Chemin des
Autrichiens'. It proceeds downwards by the wood known as the
'Bois de Savegarde' as far as the village of Saint-Rhemy.
From here, it continues along the unpaved road going up to
Plan Puitz and – before reaching the top - it descends again
along the track to Eternod, Paillex, and Etroubles. After
crossing the village of Etroubles, the route follows the
path leading to Bruson in the district of Allein and on down
to the village: Continuing across the mountainside, it
reaches the village of Doues (a crossroads in Roman times),
from where it continues to Frissoniore and then on to the
village of Valpelline.
From there, along the ru Pompillard
(irrigation channel), it reaches the principal village,
Roisan. It starts bearing downwards again near the hamlet of
Massinod and, along the ru Prevot, it reaches Closellinaz.
The track then coasts the Buthier mountain stream and
crosses it over the bridge called the 'Ponte di Calvino'
(Calvin’s Bridge)bearing upwards then to Variney where it
joins the Via Francigena route.
Aosta-Martigny - where the Via Francigena and Napoleon’s Route meet
In the Swiss Canton of the Valais, theVia
Francigena begins its ascent of the Rhone and Drance valleys
towards the great St. Bernard Pass. It follows the Gallic
road built by the Romans, which was later to become one of
the most important passages between the Northern Europe and
Italy. Napoleon’s army also left several traces of its
passage along this road.
This itinerary affords stunning
views and the opportunity to experience the reality of an
alpine environment, with its woods, mountain meadows and
lively herding and agricultural activities. From the town of Martigny, the route takes you up the Drance valleys, through
small villages where testimony of distant history is still
manifest: traces of ancient roads, Roman settlements,
monasteries and votive chapels. The walk is facilitated by
the signposting put up by the “Federation Suisse Tourisme Pedestre” (FSTP).
By simply following the signs, you will
have no difficulty in reaching the Great St. Bernard Pass.
The hospice is worth visiting to see the famous St. Bernard
dogs and visit the museum.
In the hospice entrance there’s
an imposing marble tomb where the mortal remains of General Desaix – Napoleon’s right-hand man at the battle of Marengo
- lay for some decades.
From the hospice downwards you enter
Italian territory. The descent on the Valdaostan side is
equally spectacular and inspiring. In many points, this
track crosses the one used in the past by the smugglers. On
the way down, you come to Saint-Oyen where the canons of the
Great St. Bernard still own a “dependence”, now also run as
a Hospice. It is definitely worth visiting, and a short stay
here will help restore your physical and mental strength. In
Etroubles, a little further down, there’s a tourist office
where useful information can be obtained regarding the
continuation of the itinerary that will take you down to
Gignod and from there, on to Aosta.
Description of the linked circuit and other peripheral itineraries
It is important to underline that the
stretch of the “Via Francigena” itinerary going through the
Great St. Bernard Valley is to be considered in a wider
geographical, historical socio-economic context including
the entire basin of the Buthier mountain stream and its
tributaries, in other words, the whole territory of the
Grand Combin Mountain Community.
The Valpelline valley and
the Great St. Bernard valley have solid and ancient bonds:
the name Valpelline comes from “vallis renina”, meaning the
valley leading to the Great St. Bernard Pass (Summis Peninus);
and the Buthier stream, the ancient “Balteus”, so-named
because the stream descending from Bionaz and the Artanvaz
stream (both called “Buthier” until recently) were perceived
as a single catchment basin in the shape of a “balteo”
(sward-belt).
Besides, the itinerary connecting the town of Aosta to Porosan, Roisan, Valpelline crossing the so called
“Ponte di Calvino” (Calvin’s Bridge), bears traces of
ancient settlements and was considered as an alternative to
the Via Francigena, at least in the case of shorter
journeys, and constituted the framework of the road system
in the feudal estates of Quart, parallel and complementary
to the Via Francigena.
In view of exploiting the valuable
heritage of the “Pilgrimage Routes” and their relative
historical-artistic and environmental characteristics, the
whole territory of the Grand Combin Mountain Community has
to be taken into consideration, keeping in mind, for
example, that the Patron Saints of the parish churches of
Roisan (Saint Vittore) and Valpelline (Saint Pantaleone)
refer respectively, to the spreading of veneration of the
Theban martyrs along the Via Francigena starting from St.
Maurice d’Agaune and to the veneration of the oriental
martyr-doctor who became popular in the West thanks to the
crusaders and to the pilgrims in transit on the Via
Francigena.
Starting from the upper Valpelline valley, there
are routes leading to the sanctuary of Notre Dame de Cuney,
which was the destination of one of the most important
Marian pilgrimages in the Valle d'Aosta from the XVII century
on; the chapel of Notre-Dame des Neige of Vessonaz, in the
same valley, even if of recent foundation – also attracts
numerous groups of pilgrims.
The itinerary of the circuit
described here defines, together with the Via Francigena, a
pedestrian round-trip circuit - by a route situated to the
north (l’adret) and, in part, following the outlines of
ancient “rus”(irrigation channels) or connected paths, with
one characteristic in common: the presence of religious
buildings of some artistic or historical interest (parish
churches, chapels, oratories) – and creates, together with
the other peripheral itineraries, a complete network of
“pilgrimage roads” of various importance, but all strictly
linked to the traditional religious destinations of local
culture. In the case of the circuit described here, starting
from Aosta, the route includes the districts of Roisan,
Valpelline, Doues, Allein, Etroubles, Saint-Oyen and Saint-Rhemy-en-Bosses.
The stretch of the “round-trip circuit” that leads to the
parish church of Valpelline allows one to also reach the
district of Ollomont and the By basin as well as the
districts of Oyace and Bionaz, both of which are
characterised by an important network of paths.
Useful information
Departure/arrival points
Martigny. Situated in the Rhone Valley, Switzerland.
Martigny can be reached by train from Brig-Sion or by car
over the Pass or through the Great St. Bernard Tunnel, or
also by taking the Domodossola-Brig road. By plane, from
Geneva or Lausanne.
Aosta. The Great St. Bernard Pass can be reached by public
bus service, but only during the summer (from mid-June to
mid-September). During the rest of the year, the bus service
is routed through the Great St. Bernard Tunnel. There’s a
railway station and a small tourist airport in Aosta –
otherwise, the nearest airport is in Turin.
The Via Francigena
This terrain of the route varies: unpaved roads, mountain
paths and some stretches on paved road.
The best time to go
From mid-June to mid-September, though it is wonderful also
in Springtime (May) or in winter (December ), perhaps with
snowshoes on the more stunning stretch: Saint-Oyen/Great St.
Bernard Pass.
Sights
Vestiges of historical interest and the natural alpine
environment.
Clothing and equipment
During the summer period, suitable clothing for mountain
walking. During the rest of the year, information can be had
from the AIAT (Tourist Office).
Difficulty
No particular difficulty involved.
Signposting
The entire route is well-signposted. In Swiss territory, by
the FSTP with yellow diamond-shaped signs indicating the
walking time and by brown signposts for the “Route
Napoleon-Chemin Historique”. From the Great St. Bernard Pass
to Aosta, follow the yellow TAM signs.
Maps
1:50.000 Kompass 95 Mont Blanc
1:50.000 Kompass 87 Breuil Cervinia
1:50.0000 Ente Svizzero pro-sentieri (272 and 282)
1:30.000 Istituto Cartografico Valdostano a cura dell’APT del Gran San Bernardo
Courtesy of the AIAT Gran San Bernardo